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Tokyo is unabashedly in love with Paris and everything French.
This stunning new restaurant, which is owned by Joel Robuchon,
a person often named the world's best chef, is good proof
that this love has not gone unrequited.
L'Atelier is laid out very simply. A long curved counter faces
an open kitchen where everything and everyone is on display.
The kitchen, like a stage, is dramatically lit, but Robuchon
has dressed his chefs and staff in black, so they discreetly
fade into the background. Our eyes are drawn to the red enamelware
and jars, the bright mounds of bell peppers and lemons, the
gleaming chrome racks, and most importantly to the extraordinary
food presented on the snowy white plates.
The name L'Atelier says it all - workshop, an informal place
for labor and experimentation, but also a place where masterpieces
are created. The main a la carte menu offers over 20 items
ranging from shrimp carpaccio with poppy seeds and shellfish
soup with mimolette cheese to sweetbreads with fresh laurel
and romaine lettuce and roast quail and mashed potatoes. The
starter menu lists an additional 20 items, including many
of the most popular main dishes but with smaller portions
and prices.
Actually this restaurant offers European cuisine but with
strong French background. The tiny quail, roasted until its
juices have caramelized, is served with Robuchon's signature
dish, the puree de pomme du terre, mashed potatoes. Keep eye
also on such specialties as the langoustine ravioli with freshly
cracked pepper, and the risotto made with tiny mussels.
The wine list offers a broad selection of several wines, including
such rarities as a Chassagne-Montrachet Niellon and a crisp
Saint Veran Domaine. Desserts change daily and might be a
trio of sorbets - perhaps raspberry, apricot and caramel -
or a chocolate cream with basil sorbet and garnish of fresh
berries, or a lovely passion fruit souffle, warm from the
oven, and served with a scoop of green tea ice cream.
Finally, another thing that attracts visitors is excellent
service.
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